Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/174813
ON THE TOWN RIGHT: Chris and Kenneth Himmel balance steakhouse traditions with keeping a menu fresh. BELOW AND BOTTOM RIGHT: Grill 23 uses seasonal vegetables, and steaks provided by an award-winning, family-owned meat purveyor. 92 "With the best ingredients and a passion for perfection, you're off to a good start." Oh man—what makes this steak so damn good? Chris: For the 100-day rib eye, it's the aging process. We Cryovac it and wet-age it like most steakhouses do—but then we asked, How long can we go? After 60, 75, 80 days, you wouldn't want to eat it. But after 85, 90 days, the bacteria starts breaking down the enzymes in the beef; it makes it incredibly tender for a rib eye and adds a —KENNETH HIMMEL component to the flavor that you could never replicate. What is it like to be gradually passing the reins to your son? Kenneth: The hardest thing for anybody who creates something is that hole in your stomach about who you are going to leave the business to. So it's been reassuring to see Chris step into that role, because nothing works better than a family business. No one is going to feel the same passion as someone who created it—but he grew up seeing that passion, and now he certainly has it himself. BC PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYCE VICKMARK continued from page 90 and stands at a moving line with 700pound sides of beef, stopping it when he finds one that is exceptional and then personally hand-stamping it as Grill 23 caliber. Every Monday I get the pictures of the ones he chose. How has sourcing ingredients changed over time for restaurants? Kenneth: The younger generation has grown up appreciating freshness and authenticity in product. What sold me on that approach is having been in business for nine years with Thomas Keller at Per Se. He is Mr. Source, and many of the sources we have at this restaurant are people Thomas Keller buys from in New England. Chris: Going to Keller's French Laundry changed my life. When I entered the walk-in coolers the first day and saw the fish lying fin-up on the perforated coolers, I asked Keller why. He said that's how fish are naturally swimming. And it was practically a religious experience getting lobsters out of their shells: He boiled the water and then added a capful of vinegar to help delicately separate the membrane from the shell. I try to bring that passion to our restaurants, but here it really comes back to the beef. Oh, and maybe the seafood? That lobster looks plump. Chris: We get our lobsters from Snappy Lobster Co. in Scituate. The terrain there is much rockier than off the Cape, so the lobsters are much more active and aggressive, which makes for better meat. I can attest to that personally from going out on the boat—they once put a lobster in the boat, and I swear it came after me. What do you think about these field trips Chris takes? Kenneth: I'm always calling, saying, "Where are you today? What boat are you on? What ranch are you visiting?" [Laughs] It's fantastic to see. What is an item that has remained consistent on the menu for the past 30 years? Chris: The hash browns, absolutely. The chef shreds the potatoes almost like a greasy-spoon diner would. We take clarified butter and pour it over the top of the pan, then we throw it in an 800-degree broiler. It's unbelievably crispy on top and unbelievably moist underneath. It's a family secret that I pass along to everybody: Get the hash browns. What are some of the changes you've got in store to keep things fresh at the restaurant? Kenneth: This year, we're changing the entrance and the bar. We're going to move the bar to the inside wall and add sliding-glass doors, so that in summer, fall, and spring we can have an "outside bar" inside. BOSTONCOMMON-MAGAZINE.COM 090-092_BC_ST_OntheTown_LateFall13.indd 92 9/16/13 6:25 PM