ML - Vegas Magazine

2013 - Issue 5 - September

Vegas Magazine - Niche Media - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.

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Page 93 of 163

ON THE TOWN RIGHT: Michael Frey (LEFT), who runs a growing hospitality and nightlife empire in Vegas, chats with David Robins. BELOW: The main dining room. BOTTOM RIGHT: Shrimp ceviche. continued from page 88 feel separate but part of the crowd, and Tacos & Tequila has the same style. Michael Frey: The reason we took this massive sombrero [sculpture] is that even though it covers only a small fraction of the restaurant, you always see it. Your eye never goes to the top of the pyramid. DR: Everyone wants to create an illusion of being somewhere other than the hotel, and that's exactly what it does. [He is served a selection of appetizers.] All the food here is presented really well, really modern. If you want to tie design to food, it's about color scheme; it needs good color. The day of the extreme architectural plating in the late '80s is kind of past us. Food these days is much more to the point, much more about technique. [Trying some queso fundido, guacamole, and carnitas] Simple presentation, a cool pan. That guacamole looks pretty tasty to me! And these carnitas, they just fall apart. MD: This is a good cut of meat. Usually people use the pork butt, but here they use the shoulder, so there's not too much fat. DR: Condensed milk is their secret, because it caramelizes. But milk in general is the secret: If you soak meat in milk, it tenderizes. It's like their ceviche. Just the direct lemon or lime cures the fish, and it cooks it by breaking down the protein. It's like Mexican sushi, to give you an analogy. MF: Our chef here is one of the most passionate human beings you'll ever meet, but he's an "angry chef." He's the closest in town to David here. DR: I was the original angry chef. I don't know how Gordon Ramsay got my title. But from what I know, he was a madman line cook. Say what you want about him as a celebrity, but in his day he was one of the badass line cooks. I'm glad he's made it. I really enjoy his personality. His British shows versus his American shows are a total 180. On British TV, he's funny and quirky, chatting up unattractive British celebrities. American audiences must like watching punishment. MD: It's impressive just how many people watch food shows—even kids! David's kids watch that stuff all the time. DR: My kids cook with me, and they're 7 and 4. They find it fascinating, but I don't want them to know a thing about cooking. "Dad, I want to cook like you!" No, you don't. You want to be a rock star. Practice the guitar! V 90 "Everyone wants to create an illusion of being somewhere other than the hotel."—DAVID ROBINS STRAWBERRY AGAVE MARGARITA 1 oz. Fresh strawberry purée 1 1⁄2 oz. Fragolino strawberry liqueur 3 ⁄4 oz. T&T Margarita Mix 1 1⁄2 oz. Silver tequila Mix all ingredients with ice and serve in a highball glass garnished with a strawberry. VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 088-090_V_SC_Taste_OTT_Sept13.indd 90 8/6/13 10:25 AM

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