Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
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HOME BOY Townsman's décor is as thoughtful as its menu. Chef Matt Jennings's philosophy of thought- ful sourcing extends to Townsman's interior. The 100-seat space synthesizes country hominess and city chic, with many details that celebrate handcrafts- manship and sustainable design. Here are some of its key ingredients. Upcycled design: The corner banquettes are tucked under an awning of repurposed barn wood, from which hang unique pendant lights made of corrugated cardboard. Handmade: The black walnut dining-room tables are handmade by Pawtucket furniture maker Marc Stimpson, who per- sonally forages dead wood for his custom designs. stUdio cHic: The cock- tail tables in the lounge are by Rhode Island's O&G Studio. pot lUck: The kitchen's copper pots are forged by Ocean State craftsman Jim Hamann. Hamann is also a beekeeper who supplied honey for Farmstead Inc. clockwise from left: Townsman's homey-meets- chic interior; an Orchard Collins; beef tartare. chef and his city. "I've watched downtown Boston undergo this amazing transformation," Jennings says. He recalls his younger years, when his mother admonished him to avoid the city's then-blighted Combat Zone, and compares the area then to its current landscape of revitalized theaters, soaring new towers, and lively restaurants. "I really wanted to be downtown, part of the urbanness and energy," he adds. "That feeling of homecoming is important to me." Jennings's menu ref lects this celebration of one's native place, with Townsman priori- tizing the thoughtful sourcing of top-notch ingredients. At the American brasserie's 10 -seat crudo bar, guests find a light, fresh escabèche: Rhode Island clams, Nantucket Bay scallops, and Maine mussels tossed with an avocado-based dressing and topped with tobiko and squid ink crackers. Even more delectable are the shareable multitiered towers of shellfish and char- cuterie, including terrines, pâtés, and cured meats specially provided by the Waltham gourmet delicatessen Moody's. It's no surprise that Jennings, whose butchery know-how earned him three consecutive wins in the esteemed nose-to- tail culinary competition Cochon 555, offers a meat- centric menu at Townsman. Highlights include the lamb—procured from a small farm in Maine and presented as a supremely tender, vibrant porterhouse with cranberry, beans, and creamed spinach—and a lus- cious tartare of hormone-free beef neck blended with sir- loin and velvety chilled beef fat. Herbivores, take heart: Working with Farm Fresh Rhode Island, Jennings taps regional purveyors for veggie-focused dishes like broccoli rabe with native walnuts and crispy garlic. Wine director and general manager Meredith Gallagher, an alum of powerhouse Barbara Lynch's Menton, Boston's sole Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux property, oversees Townsman's wine program with a discriminating taste for terroir. (Think Sicilian wines made with grapes raised on the volcanic soil of Mount Etna.) And dapper bar manager Sean Frederick finds inspiration in Townsman's kitchen: His Orchard Collins showcases freshly extracted Granny Smith apple juice alongside vodka, absinthe, and Czech bitters (with baking notes of cinnamon and honey), while the funky Kingston Cup, a spin on the Pimm's, employs house-made ginger beer with Sichuan pepper and fennel seed. It's a sophisticated but accessible cocktail program he describes as a "warm, wel- coming handshake" for guests. And warm welcomes are what it's all about, according to Jennings. "At the end of the day," he says, "we're here to make people feel at home." 120 Kingston St., 617-993- 0750; townsmanboston.com BC "i really wanted to be downtown, part of the urbanness and energy." —matt jennings 80 bostoncommon-magazine.com TasTE so Many Dinners (so Little Time)