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PHOTOGRAPHY BY OKEA (OPEN BOTTLE); SCOTT ROEBEN (GRANDIOSE); COURTESY OF MGM RESORTS INTERNATIONAL (YELLOWTAIL) BAR EXAM Champagne and sushi is a popular pairing at hot spot Yellowtail. continued from page 84 Beau Joie's copper stylings. Hyde Bellagio (702-693-8700; hydebellagio.com) and La Cave, at Wynn (702-770-7000; wynnlasvegas.com). "It's unusual in that it is a zero-dosage [no added sugar] Champagne made from the finest grapes in the region," says Toast Spirits cofounder Brandis Deitelbaum. Interestingly, Park also observes a trend towards a drier palate among his guests. "I recently started to offer Louis de Sacy Brut Zero, with no dosage whatsoever, and people are loving it," he says. "I brought it in as a summer Champagne, but I've kept it on." Charles Heidsieck's retro packaging invokes the label and bottling styles used by the brand at its inception in 1851. The bright tartness of drier offerings such as brut natural (or brut zero), with less than 3 grams of resid- ual sugar per liter, is refreshing in warmer weather, says Park. "For holiday dinners, a perfect Champagne would be a rosé," he says. "But any style of Champagne will help celebrate the holiday season." Wynn director of wine Mark Thomas agrees: "The mere sound of a Champagne bottle opening puts everyone within ear- shot in a good mood!" While Park doesn't like to play favorites, he notes that those looking for so-called "grower Champagnes" (from small- batch producers) might consider the NV Henri Giraud Champagne Hommage a François Hemart Brut. "At $150, the quality, taste, and the use of a lot of Pinot Noir make a full, rich Champagne for the holidays." Champagne also works beautifully in cocktails. The popular Flower Eclipse ($14) at Palazzo's Laguna Champagne Bar (702-607-7777; palazzo.com) Nectar features Moët & Chandon Impérial Champagne, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, and lemon in a well-balanced refresher. At Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in Caesars Palace (877-346-4642; caesarspalace.com), sommelier Sam Berkley introduced the $50 Grandiose cocktail, a sweet-and-savory, aromatic con- coction garnished with caviar and gold flakes that uses Paul Goerg Champagne, Château Nairac Deuxieme Crus and essential oils from a white truffle. "I set out to make one cocktail," Berkley says, "that was the ulti- mate in indulgence." V 86 VEGASMAGAZINE.COM Payard's $50 Grandiose Champagne cocktail is garnished with caviar and gold flakes. WHO'S POPPING WHAT Luxury Wines at Wynn: Tower Suite Bar's wine-by-the- glass program features a glass or half-glass of Dom Pérignon. At Botero, enjoy Krug Grande Cuvée by the glass, or a bottle of Dom for $250 on Monday and Wednesday evenings for Supper Club. Champagne Cocktails at Laguna Champagne Bar: Palazzo's Champagne bar offers Krug Grand Cuvée ($29 a glass or $115 for a half-bottle). Or sample one of the $14 Champagne cocktails on the menu, like the sweet, holiday- themed Shining Star. New Year's Eve at Aria: At the exclusive New Year's Eve Gala, more than 900 bottles of Cristal Brut 2002 are expected to be drained. At Jean Georges Steakhouse, or any of the lounge bars, enjoy Krug Grand Cuvée by the glass ($38) or half-bottle ($98) any time over the holidays. Trilogie at Cosmopolitan's EatDrink: Take-away boutique EatDrink offers the limited-release Armand de Brignac Trilogie Champagne set ($3,000). Order Gruet anywhere on the property; New Mexico's winery created a sparkling wine exclusively for Cosmopolitan called the IVV SOT: "In Vino Veritas, Sip on This." Champagne and Sushi at Bellagio: Enjoy Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label ($27 a glass) at Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant & Lounge. Or consider blueberry-infused sparkling sake, sometimes nicknamed "Japagne," for $15 per glass.