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As the Ocean Health Index sheds light on the wellness of the ocean, Las Vegas—with our insatiable love of seafood—is clamoring to do our part to help the healing. BY JON BOWERMASTER A t 270 miles from the Pacific and in the heart of the Mojave Desert, Las Vegas is perhaps the last place in the world that might come to mind when pondering the health of the ocean and its various fisheries. Yet we are home to some of the best seafood restaurants in the world, created and run by some of today's most celebrated chefs. Is there a disconnect, or does this somehow make perfect sense? With 70 percent of all seafood in the United States consumed in restau- rants, chefs like Border Grill's Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken and RM Seafood's Rick Moonen are among the nation's leaders in promoting ocean health by encouraging the use of sustainable seafood, a trend among savvy and eco-conscious restaurant owners. That they reach such a vast and wide range of customers flooding into Vegas from all over the world suggests their influences—in this case buying and encouraging epicureans to choose seafood that is not at risk—are huge. Feniger and Milliken are happy to take a leadership role in trying to change the culture. "It's our responsibility as chefs to put items on our menu that follow seafood watch lists such as the one from Monterey Bay Aquarium," Feniger says. "This way, when customers come in to Border VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 129 Aqua Pura