Austin Way Magazine - GreenGale Publishing - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.
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LaV's two-story wine cellar offers a vast array of vintages for every occasion and budget. In the know The LaV team shares insider tips for dining at this hot Austin establishment. Best seat in the house: Every table in LaV sits in a corner or against a banquet. No one is stranded in the middle of the room. "One of my favorite seats is the corner of our lounge, which gives guests a view of the amazing painting behind the bar and a peek at the mysteriously beautiful State Cemetery across the street," says owner Ralph Eads. "If you like to people watch, that is defnitely the best seat in the house." Whom you'll dine next to: General Manager Jamie Wagner shares, "On any given night, you may be sitting next to chef Shawn Cirkiel, the team from C3, or Coach [Charlie] Strong. Or our own [pastry] chef Janina [O'Leary] may be dining with her 4-year-old son, who comes in for more than just the desserts." top vintages: "We have more than 150 wines priced under $100 on our Tour du Monde list—each is outstand- ing," says advanced sommelier Vilma Mazaite. "From Occhipinti Frappato 2012 ($86) to Dominique Mugneret 'Malconsorts' 2011 ($283), we have a number of lesser-known wines that are absolutely delicious and offer really great value." photography by jody horton from left: Executive Pastry Chef Janina O'Leary puts the finishing touches on her signature brioche doughnuts, served with a seasonal jam and vanilla bean cream; green bean niçoise with pickled onion, potato confit, and soft-poached egg. independent in purpose but very much equal in drama. In the main dining room, f lowing drapery and tall fabric banquets create intimate dining environments in an otherwise airy space. Elegant dark wood tables set with crisp white china and French Guy Degrenne glassware are matched by the caliber of food coming out of the kitchen: Executive Chef Allison Jenkins (whom the Eadses lured from Ajax Tavern at The Little Nell in Aspen) lets many of her seasonal French Provincial-style dishes—baby octopus, grilled whole fish, roasted chicken for two—stand on their own, with a little help now and then from olive oil, salt, and fresh herbs. The chicken liver paté, served with house mustard and crisp cornichons, is expertly executed as is the under- stated wood-oven bouillabaisse. Save room for sweet works of art by Janina O'Leary, a 2013 James Beard Award semifinalist who formerly worked at Daniel and Per Se in New York. You can slather warm brioche doughnuts with berry jam and vanilla bean pastry cream; a chocolate delice comes with honey lavender ice cream. Those stopping in for a post-work get-together or a celebratory pair of Carte Blanche cocktails—sinful sips made with gin, Cocchi Americano, and Amaro Nonino—might settle in the more casual wine room, named for its f loor-to-ceiling bottle rack and slate-topped tables carved out with ice buckets. This social space is also one of the best to enjoy LaV's new mezze menu, a collection of happy hour – priced small plates that give a shout-out to French cuisine's Middle Eastern ties. The neighboring bar and lounge transports diners with a wall-to-wall painting of lavender fields, a visual tie-in to the Provincial-style plates. "Sipping a lavender-infused cocktail at the bar while gazing at the beautiful painting is the quickest trip to Provence you'll ever make," says frequent diner Carla McDonald, founder and editorial director of The Salonniére, the website dedicated to the art of entertaining. From the beginning, wine was a priority at LaV. (Ralph Eads is a wine lover; French, in particular, is his elixir of choice.) He handpicked advanced sommelier Vilma Mazaite—whose long list of credits includes working with Michael Mina at his namesake restaurant in Las Vegas and Mario Batali at Babbo in New York—to craft a wine collection of more than 4,500 bottles, second to none in the Texas capital. On the 64 -page menu, you can browse more than 1,000 labels, including owner favorites such as Domaine Lef laive, a white Burgundy, and Clos Dubreuil, a boutique red Bordeaux. There's also a glass-enclosed wine cellar with a private dining table that can seat up to 12 for dinner. "From the label options at the table to the restaurant's design, wine was always an important focal point," says Mazaite. LaV may be visually and gastro- nomically transporting, but it also has a strong Southern spirit, thanks to its friendly, on-point staff and sophisticated yet approachable vibe. "It's a great addition to Austin's restaurant scene and it underscores our city's growing reputation as a top food town," says McDonald. So while you're popping open a rare Right-Bank Bordeaux or diving into basil escargot, you never forget where you really are: the new culinary heart of Austin. LaV Restaurant, 1501 E. 7th St., 512-391- 1888; lavaustin.com AW CONTINuED FROM paGE 93 94 AUSTINWAY.com TAsTe so Many Dinners (so Little Time)