Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/225036
FOOD SPOTLIGHT Kobe beef tataki at Mizumi. "Kobe is like a Bentley, the best money can buy," Wynn Executive Chef David Snyder explains. "Wagyu A5 is like a very good Mercedes. There's definitely a difference, but both are very, very good." PHOTOGRAPHY BY SABIN ORR (BEEF); JEFF GREEN (CHEF) Mizumi Executive Chef Devin Hashimoto. 66 time coming: Fully certified, genuine Kobe beef is finally available in the US, and Wynn Las Vegas is the only place to find it in town—along with a certificate of authenticity from the Kobe Beef Federation, and even a plaque, proudly displayed on Mizumi's wall. Just as Champagne can only be called Champagne when it comes from its namesake region in France, Kobe may only be called Kobe when it comes from one breed of cattle in one region in Japan. The standards are high: The cows must be farm-fed Tajima cattle born in Hyogo Prefecture (of which Kobe is the capital), with a high marbling ratio and meat-quality score. Key to the extensive marbling found in Kobe beef is the care taken with the cattle. Their existence is as stress-free as possible. "The less energy they expend, the less stress they have, the higher the fat content," says Hashimoto. "Some Japanese farmers are even known to play classical music to soothe the cows." Most chefs prefer to serve the Kobe rare. "Unless it's cooked rare, you won't see the marbling," explains Wynn Executive Chef David Snyder. But of course, the kitchen will cook it to the guest's requested doneness, and since this deeply marbled meat owns the distinction of having the lowest melting point of any beef at 77 degrees Fahrenheit (meaning it will literally melt in your mouth), one who enjoys well-done meat is in luck, as the fat all melts away and bastes the meat, resulting in what will likely be the juiciest well-done steak you've ever tasted. "It's unbelievable how tender and flavorful it is," says Snyder. For the tataki, the kitchen recommends cooking just five seconds per side. "The ishiyaki [hot grill] stone is kept in our oven at 550 degrees," says Hashimoto. "When we get an order, we pull the stone out and put it over flame on the stove, then we slice about two ounces of the beef, very thin—one-sixteenth of an inch." The tataki is served with sliced Tokyo negi (aka Japanese scallions) and a trio of dipping sauces. Guests may also order the Kobe prepared in the kitchen and here, too, Chef Hashimoto takes special care. The beef is quickly seared and garnished with three different vegetables grilled off the robata bar: Japanese king mushrooms, shishito peppers, and Tokyo negi. The most important thing for Hashimoto is to let the meat shine. "It's something pretty rare, and you don't want to mess with it," says Hashimoto. "It's special on its own." n WYNN 062-066_Wynn_FEAT_FoodSpotlight_Winter13.indd 66 12/6/13 11:47 AM