Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/460267
photography by briana Moore What is the secret to staying on top in the restau- rant business for three decades? VIP friends and patrons—like Tom Brady, Billy Costa, and Gisele Bündchen— don't hur t. But t he rea l key, decla res Steve Di Fillippo, is to "hire good people. It 's so important to surround yourself with good people." He knows whereof he speaks. At the tender age of 24, DiFillippo opened his first Davio's location, on Newbury Street, where he also served as executive chef ( Julia Child was an early customer; her favorite dish was the angel hair pomodoro). Today he has seven restaurants to his name and plans to launch others, in Florida, Los Angeles, and Puerto Rico. What creates the demand for these restaurants is the food, of course. The signature Davio's Philly cheesesteak spring rolls, served with sides of spicy mayo and homemade ketchup, have earned such a cultlike following that DiFillippo manufactures them as a frozen food product now sold at grocery stores. The Bolognese sauce with tender tagliatelle, and Maine lobster risotto with lobster cream, how- ever, are delicacies that the food connoisseur can enjoy only in person, thank you. DiFillippo spoke with Boston Common about the challenges and joys of the trade. Today's dining scene: "There are more restaurants t han ever in the suburbs; it's not just downtown Boston anymore. Also, there has been a resurgence of food that my parents wouldn't eat back in the day, such as polenta and Kobe meatballs, but they're so popular that we have to put them on our menus now." Restaurant myths versus realities: "One myth I hear is that we work crazy hours, which we do, but it's not work when you love what you do. We have a good time and we work hard." Most memorable customer: "I was working the door at Dav io's on Newbur y St reet. We were busy—a 45-minute wait for a table. A guy came in, an attrac- tive woman by his side, and he said, 'Can you get me a table right now? I know Steve, the owner.' I couldn't believe it. 'Oh, you know Steve?' I said. 'Really?' I pretended to look at our list of reservations. 'Why don't you go upstairs to the bar and let me see what I can do.' I wasn't about to bump him up in the line, but a table opened up quicker than expected, in about 20 minutes. I found him at the bar. 'Sir, I have your table.' The big shot nodded smugly to his girlfriend and said, 'I'm gonna call Steve tomorrow and tell him how great you are.' It didn't occur to this guest that the person at the host stand could be the owner. If I had embarrassed him, he would have had a bad time and we never would've seen him again. It was about making the sale and running a strong business." Advice for new restaurateurs: "Pull together as much money as you can for your first year. Many restaurants fail within their first year, not because t hey a ren't good but because t hey don't have enough money to handle issues that might arise." The quality equation: "We serve great-quality food and meats from Brandt, but sometimes you can get creative with foods that you might not think would be popular. For example, our chicken livers are so pop- ular, but chicken livers are not very expensive. It's all about quality ingredients and good technique." 75 Arlington St., 617-357-4810; davios.com BC The Big 3 -0 Davio's owner Steve DiFillippo celebrates his restaurant empire with... another empire. by jessica bowne left: Boston restaurant magnate Steve DiFillippo, whose eateries attract both celebrities and locals. below: Angel hair with fresh basil in a pomodoro sauce. "One myth I hear Is that we wOrk crazy hOurs, whIch we dO, but It's nOt wOrk when yOu lOve what yOu dO." —steve difillippo 74 bostoncommon-magazine.com TASTE Top Toque