Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/120116
Pearl Jam WYNN AND ENCORE CHEFS ARE CONJURING ENTICING NEW DISHES TO SHOWCASE THE ONCE-FANCIFUL, ALWAYS FLAVORFUL CAVIAR. BY KAREN ROSE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF GALE (CONES); BRYAN HAINER (SMITH) O nce reserved strictly for royalty, caviar was served in bars like peanuts in 19th-century North America, its mainstream usage heightened by the discovery of sturgeon in US rivers. But as can easily happen with too much of a good thing, the popularity of this delectable, snappy roe led to overfishing, causing an import/export ban on wild-sturgeon caviar in the US over the last decade. That's why most caviar found at Wynn and Encore these days is farm-raised. "They remove the roe and then return the sturgeon to the water and let them reproduce [to prevent] overfishing," explains Wynn and Encore Executive Sous Chef Brian Kenny. Among the foodie set, caviar has inextricably been tied to the concept of fine dining, but Kenny is among a group of chefs throughout Wynn and Encore who are seeking to redefine attitudes about these pearls of the sea. Recently Kenny procured four different types of 10-gram caviar to allow guests the opportunity to sample the delicacy on a smaller scale. AT ENCORE'S LOBBY BAR AND CAFÉ, a new caviar menu allows guests to add a touch of luxe without breaking the bank. Lobby Bar and Café Executive "We had caviar on the menu, Chef Jeremy but I thought it would be a Smith. great idea to have a customerfriendly approach to it," says Jeremy Smith, executive chef of the Lobby Bar and Café. "Guests wanted to sample it, but we didn't really offer the option. This way we can sell 10 grams with a dish so that people can enjoy a taste." Not content with simply offering smaller portions, Smith implemented a new caviarfocused menu with items specifically designed to bring out the flavor of the roe. "It's all about offering different looks and tastes and textures, though the focus is most definitely on the caviar," he notes. Smith's menu features several offerings in moderate WYNN 050-057_W_F_FoodSpotlight_Spring_13.indd 51 51 4/4/13 4:15 PM