Wynn Las Vegas Magazine by MODERN LUXURY

Wynn - 2013 - Issue 1 - Spring+Summer

Wynn Magazine - Las Vegas

Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/120116

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Page 53 of 99

FOOD SPOTLIGHT portions, perfect for those who might stop in for a drink but then also indulge in a tasting from the caviar menu. Choices kick off with the only non-sturgeon roe on any Wynn or Encore menu: salmon roe, served with a crispy salmon croquette with lemon aioli. "The salmon roe is much larger in size," says Kenny. "About a quarter of an inch in diameter, where the osetra are anywhere from a 16th to an eighth of an inch, and it has more of a pop to it and more juice." While people employ the word "caviar" to describe any fish egg, true caviar comes from sturgeon. If the roe is from another fish, you must specify, for instance, "salmon caviar" (just as a martini means gin; if you prefer vodka, then a "vodka martini" is your order). Several of the Lobby Bar's caviar offerings are ideal for sharing, such as the half-dozen crispy wonton cones with crème fraîche and caramelized onions, topped with farm-raised European caviar. Seafood options include the jumbo lump crab and edamame hummus with crispy potatoes and farmed-raised American sturgeon caviar. If you're looking for a great bottle to round out the meal, Wynn wine director Mark Thomas suggests a Champagne pairing. "The Henriot Brut Millésimé 98 is fresh in style yet possesses a richness from its age," he says. "From that combination, you have bright apple flavors along with a creamy, almost butterscotch flavor. Still dry in style, it would complement the many flavors of this dish." The two most decadent options on the caviar menu are the poached Maine lobster and avocado with yuzu-wasabi vinaigrette and Siberian caviar, and a dish that pairs osetra caviar with truffled fingerling potato salad. Other seafood offerings include citrus-scented crispy fried Blue Point oysters with micro arugula and white sturgeon caviar. "We take the classic flavors and re-create them differently, " Smith says. Jumbo lump crab and edamame hummus with crispy potatoes and farm-raised American sturgeon caviar at Encore Lobby Bar and Café. 52 ANOTHER CHEF HAVING FUN WITH caviar pairings is David Walzog, who recently introduced a unique slider on his menu at Lakeside "to take the formality out of caviar," he says. "I like the slider because it introduces caviar to people who aren't committing to an entire tin or to an ounce or more of caviar in one serving." Walzog's slider consists of a butter brioche bun freshly baked "almost à la minute," or just before service, then topped with whipped crème fraîche, chives, and caviar in five- or 10-gram increments. "It's an awesome bite," Walzog says. "The creamy quality of the bread curbs the [roe's] salinity and complements it really well." As with so many items that find their way onto Wynn and Encore menus, a tasting is in order before selections are finalized. "We'll taste 10 or 15 different caviars, and the ones that really stand out make it to the menu," Walzog explains, noting that the caviar PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF GALE "Caviar adds a lot to dishes, not just in terms of elegance or price point, but more importantly in depth of flavor."—david walzog WYNN 050-057_W_F_FoodSpotlight_Spring_13.indd 52 4/4/13 4:15 PM

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