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BAR EXAM cuvée by the sea HAD NANTUCKET WINE CONNOISSEURS ABUZZ. BY VICTORIA A. RICCARDI A STELLAR HARVEST IN 2004 PRODUCES A RARE GRANDE DAME FROM VEUVE CLICQUOT THAT P op! The exciting sound was followed by a gentle pour of bubbling elixir into the flutes of aficionados at this year's Nantucket Wine Festival. But these weren't just any bubbles: these were the first sips of Veuve Clicquot's vintage La Grande Dame 2004, a superb vintage crafted into a prestige cuvée. "It was the opening of Cru restaurant, and more than 100 people had come to celebrate," says Cyril Brun, senior winemaker and wine communications manager at Veuve Clicquot in Reims, France, who brought bottles of the vintage Champagne to Nantucket. "It was the first time we were serving the 2004. It was just a few colleagues and I, and they had never tasted it. Then some people came over for a taste." "Everyone expected it to be more heavy," says Brun, referring to the responses. "They were impressed by the Champagne's fresh- ness and character, which starts off with intense flavors of smoke, nuts, and nougat, and then becomes toasty and bready, with fla- vors of brioche." Veuve Clicquot's La Grande Dame 2004. Releasing vintage Champagne is rare for any producer—Veuve Clicquot's last vintage La Grande Dame was from 1998. "We make a vintage when we see perfection [in the main ingredient in the blend]," says Brun. Having suffered a drought in 2003, the vines were braced for another bad year. Instead, in 2004 they got classic Champagne weather—a wet winter, dry spring, and hot summer with cool nights. As a result, the vines provided a bounty of flavorful grapes. Veuve Clicquot Vineyard in Verzy gate at Reims, France The cuvée blends the traditional style of Veuve Clicquot—bold and creamy—with the qualities of the 2004 harvest, which Brun describes as rich in minerality with a crisp acidic finish. The wine is so exceptional he created a special glass in which to enjoy it. "I wanted a glass that would bring out the Champagne's characteristics." It com- bines the classic Burgundy balloon shape with that of a flute. Hand-blown in France, they will be used at worldwide tasting events beginning in 2013. However, we won't have to wait as long for the wine itself: La Grande Dame 2004 is available this month. While it can be cellared for 10–20 years, it's ready to be consumed immediately. ($165) Gordon's Fine Wines & Liquors, 599 Moody St., Waltham, 781-894-2771; gordonswine.com BC 80 BOSTONCOMMON-MAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHY BY FREDERIC MAUREL (GLASS); LEIF CARLSSON (VERZY)