TheBurg

06.16 | theburg | 33 born!) e Amish don't name their animals. ey are commodities, so they don't get attached. Close to the barn, we see laundry drying on a clothesline. A hand-wringer clothes washer and water pump are nearby. An efficient pulley system spins approved fabric colors: maroon, light blue, green, black. When I see store-bought underwear and socks, I remind myself that Amish believe in practical living, which doesn't dictate that everything be homemade. To align with their simplicity value, they choose the least expensive option. Amish don't believe in wires, keeping them off the grid. Most of their gas-powered appliances run off batteries or a noisy generator housed in an outbuilding. Our guesthouse is another of the farm's many outbuildings. Modest and cozy, it is filled with quilts, woodworking and cross-stich samplers. I am grateful for the family's belief in indoor plumbing and for providing one electrical outlet hidden somewhere in the house. When evening comes, my agri-tourist excitement comes alive. TV and Twitter don't exist here. We walk winding country lanes, look at stars and listen to crickets chirp. We build a fire. We turn on a kerosene lamp to read. When that fun is done, we go to sleep by 8 p.m. PeACeFuL AMbIeNCe Guests are invited to help with farm chores, beginning at 4 a.m. I don't partake because the only way I'm up that early is if I'm still awake from the night before. At dawn, sunlight begins to stream into the windows, seemingly earlier than in my own bedroom at home. By 8 o'clock, Saturday morning breakfast is delivered, consisting of unpasteurized eggs, coffee cake, raw milk, farm-fresh butter, strawberry preserves and homemade bread and yogurt. Generously, our hosts have saved us a few morning chores to do. We gather eggs, feed animals and milk other animals. e kids are pros, showing us exactly how to extract milk from an udder. We decide to visit downtown Ronks, Pa., to see our Amish neighbors at work and to do some shopping. We find stores for furniture, crafts, quilts, buggies and farmers markets. We also see the town blacksmith, horse dealer and a one-room schoolhouse. We wander into a general store. I muse that I could put together an Amish outfit out of straight pins and fabric. For a moment, I imagine myself in a bonnet, but put it down when my inner voice reminds me that culture is not a costume. We return to the guesthouse and discover the guest book. Past guests regale its pages with gratitude for their innkeepers taking them shopping or to an auction. Mom says, "You probably have to help them with 4 a.m. chores to get invited." She and I enjoy a second night of peaceful farm ambience, gazing over meadows. No telephone poles or electric wires spoil our view. When we can't see outside anymore, there's nothing like watching flames eat logs through the window of a wood stove. e sizzling doesn't compete with other noise. (Unless A/C is optional for you, Amish B&Bs are best in fall, winter or spring.) No breakfast is delivered on Sunday mornings. e Amish honor the Sabbath. It is time for us to leave. If you stay in Amish country with non-Amish hosts, chances are they know an Amish family willing to host you for a meal, buggy ride or farm tour. Otherwise, a quick Internet search can help you out. And, if you find an innkeeper who agrees to take you to church, call me. buNKINg WIth the AMISh Would you like to enjoy your own weekend close by, but away from it all? Here's where to start researching a mini-vacation in Amish country. amish farm stay: www.amishfarmstay.com discover lancaster: www.discoverlancaster.com Buggy rides: www.aisforamishbuggyrides.com

• Cover