The O-town Scene - Oneonta, NY
Issue link: https://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/29770
Local Eats City dining in the country Andes Hotel and Restaurant On Main Street in the dainty hamlet of Andes, the Andes Hotel and Restaurant of- fers some of the best dishes in the area in its original 19th century building. Ed and Sally O’Neill bought the place in 2001 and freshened it up a bit, but kept its authentic cache unchanged. The O’Neills’ vision was to open and run a place that would continue the local tradition, but at the same time would bring a little bit of culinary sophistication from downstate. They man- aged to do that, while keeping the atmo- sphere casual and cozy. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, Ed O’Neill had worked in New York City for about eight years before deciding to buy and open his own place upstate. The Andes Hotel was a hotel and stage coach stop on state Route 28 for about 150 years before the O’Neills bought it; and it was exactly what they wanted. The place is divided between a tavern with a casual atmosphere and a more formal and relaxed dining-room area, which can seat up to 45 people. It also still operates as a hotel, and is a popular spot for live music. In his kitchen, O’Neill applies all the tech- niques that he used in New York City’s Mi- 12 O-Town Scene April 21, 2011 chelin-starred restaurants, where he worked after graduating from the CIA. But, he also wants to give customers comfort food. “We still try to respect the food as much and just prepare it in a way that is going to highlight what the food is about: simple flavors, flavors that work together, and basically flavors that people are going to enjoy,” he said. “I don’t want to teach people what to eat, I want people to enjoy what they eat.” A popular item on the din- ner menu is the whole roasted brook trout, which is local trout stuffed with a Julienne vegetable mix of squash, onion and carrots, served with a crispy risotto cake and citrus and caper brown butter. O’Neill said his cooking philosophy is to combine regionally sourced products with the eclectic flavors of the Mediterranean area. The cooking is American with some French influence. The focus is on everybody, he said: both more savvy eaters from the metropolitan area as well as locals feel welcomed. For in- stance, big, juicy steaks and burgers cooked over a wood fire and crisp, roasted chicken, pork loin and bacon-wrapped sea scallops are just a few choices from the diverse menu. Continued on Page 13