Vegas Magazine - Niche Media - There is a place beyond the crowds, beyond the ropes, where dreams are realized and success is celebrated. You are invited.
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LOCAL FLAVOR Valentino's modest entrance. Luciano Pellegrini moved to the US to work at the original Valentino in Santa Monica. Ibérico de Bellota pork loin tagliata is a rare treat. that's amore VALENTINO MAKES US FALL MADLY IN LOVE WITH ITALIAN FOOD ALL OVER AGAIN. BY CATHERINE DE ORIO PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYAN HAINER I talian restaurants in Las Vegas are as ubiquitous as miniature Colosseum replicas at Rome's major tourist haunts. But among those, truly exceptional dining experiences can be as elusive as finding a perfect mate. Tucked in a corner just off Venetian's casino floor, it would be easy to pass by Valentino, but that would be a mistake—especially if a romantic date with to-die-for Italian food is what's in order. Perhaps not as well-known as some of the big-name luminaries that have populated the Strip in the past few years, this restaurant is Vegas's best-kept secret in Italian dining. Bergamo, Italy–born, James Beard Foundation Award–winning Executive Chef and Partner Luciano Pellegrini began his culinary training at age 13, immediately following school with a position at Michelin-starred Locanda dell'Angelo. He moved to the States to work with Piero Selvaggio, proprietor of the iconic Valentino Santa Monica, and 28 years later he has never looked back. Pellegrini remains true to the principle tenant of the Italian kitchen: simplicity. "We are an honest cuisine," Pellegrini says. "We use quality ingredients and prepare them with the least amount of manipulation." Yet somehow, even a simple plate of cold cuts is transformed into a gustatory delight: The medley of house-cured guanciale, duck prosciutto, lamb 48 Truly exceptional dining can be as elusive as finding the perfect mate. bresaola, and wild boar play amongst juicy slices of heirloom tomatoes and pillowy-soft buffalo mozzarella as a first course. Later, a dish of chanterelle agnolotti with robiola cheese fondue and freshly shaved white truffles will please even the most decadent of palates. Simple may be the buzzword in this kitchen, but the cuisine is inventive and sophisticated. Pellegrini bluntly states there are no new dishes, but rather new interpretations on classics to modify and modernize the flavor profile. Seared Napa Valley quail is basted with a Tuscan barbecue sauce—a combination of traditional ingredients mixed with olive oil and a bit of liquid smoke. Instead of cooking it down to concentrate the flavors, he bastes the quail with the "raw" sauce, which results in a light, tangy, and ever-so-sweet glaze that marries well with the game bird's natural flavors. The finished product is so delectable that the maître d' suggested closing the door to the private dining room so it can be eaten the best way: right from the bone, using our hands. In true Italian fashion, here, pleasure's pursuit trumps pomp and circumstance. Since the restaurant is named after an infamous 1920s sex symbol, Rudolfo "The Latin Lover" Valentino, it is apropos that an equally continued on page 50 VEGASMAGAZINE.COM 048-054_V_SC_FoodnBooze_SMD-Guide_Win13.indd 48 1/2/13 1:37 PM