GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

2017-03-16 - Las Vegas Weekly

Las Vegas Weekly

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B Y B R O C K R A D K E n recent months, locals' casinos all over the Valley have been upgrading their din- ing o erings, and the trend has nally found its way to Summerlin's JW Mar- riott and Rampart Casino complex. Hawthorn Grill, a beautiful, 18,000-square-foot space that replaced Ceres near the hotel's Spa Tower, is the rst new restaurant there in ve years. A steakhouse by night and classic resort breakfast café in the mornings, it also serves Sunday brunch and o ers a bar menu daily starting at 4 p.m. The bar is the place to be, an expansive and sophisticated spot with a solid cocktail menu. If you like to take dinner at the bar like I do, this could be a new favorite. The dinner menu sticks mostly to standards but exhibits a few twists from executive chef Joseph Swan, who comes from the kitchen at the Ei el Tower Restaurant on the Strip. The signature starter is a plate of lamb ribs ($14) in sweet and sticky honey-garlic sauce, but rich on- ion soup with a gruyere and provolone-covered brioche crouton ($10) and even better roasted tomato bisque with tangy basil cream ($9) also captivated our palates. Our rst two entrées—seared scallops over mascarpone polenta ($36) and a simple petite - let mignon ($40)—arrived a bit underseasoned, so if your comfort zone is the "simply grilled" section of the menu, concentrate on avorful cuts like a veal chop in black tru e butter ($56) or a prime New York striploin ($52). For lighter and more a ordable fare, sweet potato gnocchi with Maine lobster ($38) is dressed in sweet shell sh butter, branzino ($32) is decked out in bright chimichurri sauce and the lobster BLT ($19) is hard to resist with applewood-smoked bacon, spicy mayo and thick-cut fries. Save room for mascarpone cheesecake ($10) with blood orange couli or a chocolate sou é with créme anglaise ($14). Suburban dining has advanced quite a bit since this resort opened 18 years ago. Hawthorn Grill brings it up to speed. BIG IN THE 'BURBS HAWTHORN GRILL BRINGS SOPHISTICATED STEAKHOUSE FLAIR TO SUMMERLIN HAWTHORN GRILL JW Marriott, 702-597- 5955. Monday-Thursday, 6-11 a.m., 4-10 p.m.; Friday, 6-11 a.m., 4-11 p.m.; 6 a.m.- noon, 4-11 p.m.; 6 a.m.- 1 p.m., 4-11 p.m. I Hawthorn Grill's ahi tuna poke. (Mikayla Whitmore/Staff) 0 3 . 1 6 . 1 7 L A S V E G A S W E E K LY

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