ML - Boston Common

Boston Common - 2015 - Issue 4 -Fall

Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.

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"the way you eat over there is very social. it's more of a narrative of hot and cold, different flavors and textures." —geoff lukas On Lukas's menu, which he crafted with consulting chef Dia ne Kochilas (a highly rega rded aut hor a nd exper t on Greek foodways and a resident of Athens), there are a dozen or so meze, cold or hot. No ent rées. "T hink of t his a s a n adventure," says Lukas. "Diane knows Greece, and that's the anchor of the menu. She has such a deep and broad under- st a nding of Greek cuisine. I deliberately focused on a nd studied the foods I'm into and the countries I've traveled to, like Tunisia, Iran, and Israel—countries that have a connec- tion geographically or historically with Greece." In addition to his extensive travels, Lukas also spent time in the local kitchens of Sofra Bakery and Oleana with chefs Ana Sortun a nd Maura K irkpat r ick—a nd clea rly t heir k nowledge of North African and Mediterranean cuisines and their use of spices and other f lavors rubbed off. The vegetable-focused menu may be traditional in tech- nique and ingredients, but it's also contemporary, with bright, fresh executions of dishes that have joined the North American culinary repertoire. Cold meze (or arhi), a good place to begin, include familiar plates like tzatziki, baba ghanoush, hummus, and stuffed grape leaves. At Committee they are, in order, thick and luxurious, made with imported Greek yogurt and braised seasonal greens; gracefully smoky (from the charred eggplant) and light as a feather (courtesy of whipped tahini); full of texture from the mashed (not puréed) chickpeas; and a rich blend of vaguely sweet and salty rice and pine nuts. There are also sympetherio, a bean dish from the Greek island of Crete, and taramosalata, a creamy dip made from fish roe and bread (Lukas substitutes potatoes). Olive oil reigns in his kitchen: It's in just about everything, and Lukas is devoted to Chafic Maalouf 's Lebanese brand, Olive Harvest (avail- able at Formaggio Kitchen and Sevan Bakery). Examples of warm meze (or pioteros) are wild greens nim- bly wrapped in ethereal phyllo dough (paper-thin sheets of pastry, made in-house) that fairly f loat off the plate; lamejun, an Armenian f latbread topped with ground lamb, charred tomato, and nigella seeds; and grilled haloumi cheese served with oven-puckered grapes and just a bit of ouzo for another balanced hit of sweet and salty. But perhaps earning the great- est affection are the zucchini chips. Likely a riff on chips and dip, the thin rounds of light, crispy zucchini paired with onion- laced labneh (thickened yogurt) are impossible to resist. "This is healthy food," says Lukas. "It always has been." The Mediterranean diet has long been a focus of study for nutritionists and public-health experts, in large part due to its reliance on olive oil, vegetables, legumes, and grains, but also for its social aspects: This is food that's meant to be shared. 50 northern ave., 617-737-5051; committeeboston.com BC BAR LIFE Take a seat at the bar and experience the social Committee. A solo seat at Committee's big bar doesn't have to be lonely. Located in the center of the dining room, this is a very social place. The cocktails break away from the Mediterranean theme a bit (owner George Aboujaoude and general manager Demetri Tsolakis both have history with the local nightlife scene) with well-crafted old fashioneds, made all the better with blood orange syrup and hints of grapefruit. A take on the Moscow mule is created with chili-infused vodka and a touch of cardamom. (And the bartenders' showman- ship is as fawless as their mixology.) The thoughtful wine list, meanwhile, pays homage to the homeland with selections from Greece and Lebanon, as well as Italy and France. from left: Owner George Aboujaoude, chef Geoff Lukas, and general manager Demetri Tsolakis. right: Grilled haloumi cheese served with oven-puckered grapes. The Akos Crosz Chocolate cocktail. 82  bostoncommon-magazine.com taste so Many Dinners (so Little time)

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