Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/526269
84 bostoncommon-magazine.com 1 2 3 4 5 photography by aFrICa StUDIo The Golden Grape There's a reason why chardonnay is This summer's new iT wine. we've found five of The besT vinTages for you. by victoria abbott riccardi At its best, Chardonnay is a lush, golden wine with plenty of acidic brightness and a crisp minerality. Think your classic Chablis. But until recently, American winemakers aimed for a different sort of Chardonnay. Their ultimate expres- sion was so woody, fat, and alcoholic, it brought about its own demise. "The critics were unhappy with the style," says Sandy Block, vice president of bever- age operations for Legal Sea Foods and one of the few certified Masters of Wine in this country. "So about five years ago, winemakers started creating a purer Chardonnay that's less oaked, less sweet, more food-compatible, and more acceptable to the public." These new-style Chardonnays finally do jus- tice to the grape. Still rich on the palate, they have a lighter, fresher taste—perfect to sip with summer seafood. Here are several to try. HirscH, sonoma coast, 2011 Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards launched the non- profit organization In Pursuit of Balance in 2011 to promote better balanced, less manipulated Chardonnays (and Pinot Noirs) throughout America, and this wine notably achieves that goal, with hints of vanilla and peaches balanced by cit- rus and slate. "Hirsch wine is snuggled between the rugged terrain of western California and the Pacific," says Nicholas Daddona, wine director at Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar (70 Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995; meritagetherestaurant.com). "It is one of the few places in the vast region that sees a great inf luence of the Pacific Ocean on the vines." Daddona and Meritage chef Daniel Bruce suggest pairing it with pan- seared halibut and asparagus purée. Flowers, sonoma coast, 2012 The cool Pacific Ocean gives this voluptuous Chardonnay a mineral-rich brightness. In the glass, you'll savor "fresh f lavors of Comice pear and Honeycrisp apple," according to Flowers Vineyard and Winery, "followed by a driving minerality on the midpalate and a lingering finish derived from the vibrant acidity." Available at Ostra (1 Charles St. South, 617-421-1200; ostraboston.com), it's a perfect match for the char-grilled branzino with salt-cured lemon and herbs. newton UnFiltered, napa Valley, 2011 Newton Vineyard has earned a sterling reputation for its unfiltered wines, which are bottled without filtration in order to preserve their natural aromas and fruit f lavor. By using natural (as opposed to cultured) yeast, the vineyard maintains the wine's true essence. R icher than the new- st yle Chardonnays, this creamy wine has a soft acidit y with notes of roasted nuts and marmalade. Find it at Strega Waterfront (1 Marina Park Dr., 617-345-3992; stregawater front.com), where it partners beautifully with seared Maine scallops with pesto. cHeHalem "ian's reserVe" stoller Vineyard, dUndee Hills, oregon, 2008 "This delicate vineyard-designated Chardonnay is rich, broad, full, and yet retains a pure acid structure due to the ext remely cool Oregon weat her in 2 0 0 8 ," says Sa ndy Block of Legal Sea Foods. "According to Chehalem Wines founder Harry Peterson-Nedry, it expresses an 'essence of candied ginger, lime, white f lower, and grapefruit pith.'" Available at The Collection on Floor 2 at Legal Harborside (270 Northern Ave., Liberty Wharf, 617-477-2900; legalsea foods.com), it pairs superbly with the sizzled skate and miso brown butter. starmont stanly rancH estate, carneros, 2012 "This Chardonnay has great balance; a nice round, crisp f i n ish; a nd a g reat toa sted nose," says Na ncy Bat ist a - Ca swell, t he ow ner of Br ine (25 State St., Newburyport, 978-358-8479; brineoyster.com). With its notes of butter- scotch and nutmeg, "it pairs perfectly with our Jonah crab salad, as well as the butter-poached lobster dish," accented with corn and juicy charred melon. BC taste Cheers!