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photography by jeff crawford (whisky) Ramen-San tonkotsu with chasu pork and a molten egg, served in a savory pork broth. Whisky drinkers around the world collectively gasped when Jim Murray's Whisky Bible recently proclaimed a spirit not from Scotland, but Japan—Yamazaki's Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013—the world's best whisky. That's no surprise to local beverage experts, who have been stocking their bars with more and more of the Japanese spirit. At The Berkshire Room (15 E. Ohio St., 312-894-0945; theberkshire room.com), beverage director Benjamin Schiller curates a Japanese whisky selection ranging from Nikka Coffey Still—a sweet spirit with a similar body to bourbon— to the new single malt Yoichi 15, which has a gentler profle. "The best Japanese malts are able to stand on the same level as cult whiskies from Kentucky and exclusive, high- end single malts from Scotland," he says. Schiller sips his whiskies like any fne spirit: neat, with a side of water for adjustment. Chef Gene Kato of Sumi Robata Bar (702 N. Wells St., 312-988-7864; sumirobatabar.com) also recommends Japanese whisky straight, before or after a meal. Kato spotlights the spirit by serving it over hand- carved spheres of ice both at Sumi Robata Bar and at the downstairs Charcoal Bar, where bottles are also chilled. Similar to the culinary program, which showcases ingredi- ents though simple cooking techniques, Kato says Japanese whisky embodies the culture's philosophy of creating quality products that are best enjoyed "as is." Meanwhile, Japonais by Morimoto (600 W. Chicago Ave., 312-822- 9600; japonaismorimoto.com) departs from neat tradition, incorporating the spirit into the Chicago cocktail featuring Yamazaki 12-year with Carpano Antica Formula vermouth and plum bitters. "Japanese whisky has always been amaz- ing; however, at many bars it was more of a novelty for the back bar," says beverage director Christopher Peiffer. "I feel that over the past fve years, word has spread, curiosity has increased, and people are interested in learning." Whisked AWAy Japanese whisky finds a home in the Windy City. In the United States, ramen has typically been synonymous with packets of dehydrated noodles in Styrofoam, but these days the Japanese staple has become Chicago's latest sizzling culinary trend. Former Bonsoiree and Kabocha chef Shin Thompson, whose grandfather owned a popular ramen shop in Hokkaido, pays tribute to his ancestor's legacy with Furious Spoon (1571 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-531-2120; furiousramen.com). Here, he amps up the sophistication factor by serving ramen with rich tonkotsu-style broth and the option of shoyu or miso, house-made noodles, and an assortment of toppings (think mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions, sesame, and pork). According to Thompson, though, his version still adheres to ramen's signature appeal: "It's cheap, fast, and good." If heat is what you seek, enter High Five Ramen (112 N. Green St., 312-754-0431; highfiveramen.com), where Brendan Sodikoff takes inspiration from Kinkambo in Tokyo, which offers a spicy bowl made with numbing Sichuan peppers and four types of chilies. With its loud music, dim lighting, raw-brick walls, and exposed rafters, High Five's ambiance is as intense as its broth. This focused approach mirrors thousands of ramen shops throughout Tokyo, where each offers its own signature bowl. "It would be great if every 10 blocks there was a new ramen shop," says Sodikoff, hinting at future Chicago outposts, each specializing in a unique ramen. Chicago flavors come to the forefront at Ramen-San (59 W. Hubbard St., 312-377-9950; ramensan.com), Lettuce Entertain You's interpretation of an urban ramen restaurant. Here, light shoyu broth is served with noodles and smoked brisket from nearby Bub City (435 N. Clark St., 312-610-4200; bubcity chicago.com), and kimchi- covered fried chicken swims in hearty tonkotsu broth, contrasting modern bowls and featuring more tradi- tional shoyu ramen with mushroom and a molten egg. Says chef Doug Psaltis, "[The crowd] ranges from neophytes discover- ing ramen for the first time—rather than thinking of it as college eats that come from a plastic pouch—to veteran ramen lovers who've traveled and tried ramen all over the world." ma Ramen Revival ChiCago Chefs prove that the Japanese dish is so muCh more than noodle soup. By SaRah fReeMan 88 michiganavemag.com TAsTe Cuiscene