Boston Common - Niche Media - A side of Boston that's anything but common.
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LEFT: Natalie's offers classic New England charm and a menu of scrumptious options, including the lobster bisque soup (BELOW), which is poured tableside. "We offer globally inspired dishes made with as many local ingredients as possible." CHRIS LONG PHOTOGRAPHY BY RUSSELL FRENCH (MENU, BISQUE); MICHAEL BOWKER (INN) To satisfy different appetites, Long and Stevens offer three different prix fixe menus: a standard three-course menu, a seven-course tasting, and a five-course lobster menu. We recom- mend the last one, not only because lobster screams summer, but because Long has a deft hand when cooking this luxurious seafood. In 2013 Long was crowned Maine Lobster Chef of the Year for his thyme butter-poached lobster served over corn, parsnips, and mushrooms (available at Natalie's come fall). Before your meal arrives, warm rolls appear with tiny dishes of salt sea- soned with such ingredients as truff le, red wine, rosemary, and porcini. An amuse-bouche comes next, perhaps in the form of a tiny deconstructed Caesar salad. Then the show begins. A recent lobster tasting commenced with a Thai lobster asparagus salad bundle, resting upon a dollop of rhu- barb ponzu. Next came a batter-fried lobster tail tucked into a steamed Chinese bun with truff le aioli and pickled fiddleheads, followed by a cur- ried lobster bisque, and then pea-filled lobster ravioli "garnished" with the tail and claw. Champagne, a fruity rosé, and a funky R iesling- Chardonnay blend accompanied the tasting thanks to wine director Micah Wells, who oversees the restaurant's 300 -bottle list, which has been lauded by Wine Spectator. For future menus, Long and Stevens are experimenting with a lobster gelée terrine studded with local shellfish and seaweed, rosy slices of grilled pork tenderloin with pickled peaches and bacon foam, and a grilled striped bass in spicy tomato broth. "So often our menu is based on what comes through our door," says Long. "Shelby and I talk about the dish, sketch it out, and then test it." Once perfected, owners Verest and Brunyanszki give the final nod of approval. Wells then picks out the perfect accompanying wine. As for sweets, pastry chef Jason Sturdivant spins sugar, cream, fruit, and chocolate into magical combinations, like the gossamer lemongrass parfait with fennel pollen macaroon, blueberry compote, and lemon emulsion. A veteran of Manhattan's Michelin-starred WD-50 and Herons Restaurant in the Umstead Hotel and Spa in North Carolina—which received five stars from Forbes Travel Guide and five diamonds from AAA—Sturdivant also makes the mignardises that arrive with coffee (think coffee caramels, fruit jellies, and marshmallows). And while it's sad to see a superb meal come to an end, you can always reserve lodgings at the inn for the night (there are 20 uniquely designed rooms). That way, you'll get to sample Long, Stevens, and Sturdivant's treats again the next morning at breakfast. 83 Bay View St., Camden, Maine, 207-236-7008; nataliesrestaurant.com BC BOSTONCOMMON-MAGAZINE.COM 69