GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

March 6, 2014

Las Vegas Weekly

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Page 20 of 67

MARCH 612, 2014 LASVEGASWEEKLY.COM 21 PHOTOGRAPHS BY L.E. BASKOW It sounds counterintuitive—potatoes on a sandwich? But one bite of Los Antojos' pambazo and eyebrows raise, mouth chews intently, brain does a somersault of realization: Man, this is good. Because this sandwich is more than the sum of its humble parts. Together, its elements explode with flavor and texture, from the pillowy-soft bread grilled to a crunch and just barely greasy from an adobo-sauce bath, to the snap of freshness from iceberg let- tuce, punctuations of salty cotija cheese and dense potato cooked with cho- rizo, the warm, smoky bassline of this well-tuned bite. Potatoes on a sand- wich? Yes, absolutely. $4.99. 2520 S. Eastern Ave., 457-3505. –SF Local chefs, discriminating taco lovers and hungry late-night partiers all agree: This is the best two dollars you'll spend in Las Vegas. All the tacos at Tijuana legend Tacos El Gordo are stellar, but the spicy-sweet, red-tinted, juicy roasted pork known as adobada is the taco by which all others are measured. Griddled corn tortillas are bursting with meat, so much so that they're difficult to fold into chomp-able form, topped with onions and cilan- tro, cool avocado sauce and a few shards of pineapple. So good, you feel like you're stealing. $2. 3049 Las Vegas Blvd. S., 641-8228; 1724 E. Charleston Blvd., 251-8226. –BR Stuff your face at these three local taco carts For some, the words "street food" conjure images of sketchy corners and mystery meats. But food tastes better when you're outside in the sunshine, mingling with fellow eaters and talking up the people making your meal. It's closer to home cooking than a restaurant, fresh and full of love, with the added bonus of exposure to cultural nuance and no sideways glances if you lick your in- gers. Street food provides a connection beyond stuing your face, and some of the best tacos in Vegas come from these roadside carts. You know you're in the right place when you stumble on a tire shop parking lot saturated in luo- rescent lighting and accordion music with a long, snaking line. Mexico City mainstays like alambres and huaraches are available, but opt for the al pas- tor tacos and their near-perfect sweet-salty ratio of pork to pineapple. Huge hunks of meat also make the lengua tacos a hit. 530 Las Vegas Blvd. North. Tripe tacos in a thrift store parking lot? Check- mate. This spot just opened late last year, but the kitchen crew knows how we like it: tripe crispy and clean-tasting, generous cuts of carne asada and sublime hand-made corn tortillas. Load up on additions like grilled onions and jalapeños at the condiment bar. 6029 W. Charleston Blvd. When it takes four cooks to man a taco cart and patrons drag along their own lawn chairs, you get the sense this place means business. The name hints at the desired order—al pastor tacos. Served meat-only on larger-than-normal corn tortillas, these babies de- serve a dose of veggies, spicy salsas and an icy Mexi- can Coke. 1639 E. Charleston Blvd. –Brittany Brussell > TRY THE TRIPE Tacos Gil makes it crispy and clean- tasting, just like we like it. OUTLINED_18-25_Feature_Mexican_Food_20140306_ML.indd 21 3/5/14 4:22 PM

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