GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

March 6, 2014

Las Vegas Weekly

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Page 18 of 67

MARCH 612, 2014 LASVEGASWEEKLY.COM 19 SALSAS BY L.E. BASKOW One bowl should be enough. If you ask for more, you're putting your entrée in jeopardy. That's a bad move at Frank & Fina's, where everything from chile verde enchiladas to citrus-roasted chicken to veggie taquitos will leave you happy and full. But you'll still put it all at risk for another dish of the brilliantly balanced table salsa with an- other basket of warm corn chips. You can't think your way out of this one. You know it's just roasted tomatoes and chilies, cilantro and onion and lime and salt. Simple stu, right? So why is it so addictive? How do they ind the crucial ratios of smooth to chunky, spicy to sweet, roasty to fresh? And how come a spoonful of this salsa goes great on absolutely anything you might order? That joyful chips-and-salsa anticipation that comes with a visit to any Mexican restaurant is multiplied exponentially at Frank & Fina's. Three bowls should be enough, right? Frank & Fina's Cocina, 4175 S. Grand Canyon Drive, 5793017. –Brock Radke E A T T H E C O V E R ! It arrives at the table still bubbling, a three-legged, volcanic stone vessel overflowing with chicken, beef, shrimp, nopal, rad- ish, green onion and half an avocado in a zingy red sauce. A peppy little cocktail umbrella juts out of a chunk of cheese, as if to acknowledge the ridiculousness of this massive cauldron of Mexican goodness. And it's fun to eat, too—a make-your-own- taco treasure hunt to top warm tortillas with the choicest bits of meat and accents of lime and chili. Wash it all down with a Negra Modelo (beers are $1 on Wednesday) and browse the wares of vendors hawking CDs and DVDs in the North Las Vegas dining room. Or devote your full attention to the molcajete—it deserves it. $20.99. 1553 N. Eastern Ave., 633-7595. –Sarah Feldberg > SUBLIME SIMPLICITY The salsa at Frank & Fina's Cocina has us hooked. OUTLINED_18-25_Feature_Mexican_Food_20140306_ML.indd 19 3/5/14 4:21 PM

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