GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

December 19, 2013

Las Vegas Weekly

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A&E | FOOD > COME HUNGRY The new menu includes carne asada with bacon-wrapped shrimp, a chile verde burrito (inset) and a rich Kahlúa sundae (below). SOHO DOES SUSHI RIGHT Former Social House chef John Chien Lee elevates neighborhood dining How can you tell which of our indistinguishable neighborhood sushi spots are worth your time, money and ravenous raw-fish appetite? Most times it's a crapshoot, but at Soho in the deep southwest, there are two factors in your favor: First, it's a lovely restaurant, spacious, warm and > CAPTION HEAD Caption goes here caption goes here caption goes here caption goes here bright. Second and more important, it's the creation of chef John Chien Lee, who helped open the consistently great Social House restaurant way back when it first appeared at TI. He's all-pro, and REVAMPING THE BURRITO Super Mex gets cozier and tastier as Jalisco Cantina BY BROCK RADKE this sprawling neighborhood is fortunate to have stolen him from the Strip. Soho's sashimi is supreme, from the rainbow of fishy flavors in the lunchtime bento box ($8.50) to the strips of yellowtail lengthening list of styles and brands of the fiery spirit Why would local owners of an already popular, for you to taste.) So Jalisco Cantina offers everything familiar and long-running Mexican restaurant franfrom street-style tacos to grilled, lime-spritzed seafood chise rock their own boat? For Natasha and Ross to a sweet, nutty mole. Williams, it was a matter of quality. After operating a Start your meal with one of the Mexican pizzas Sunset Road location of Super Mex for 12 years and ($12.50), particularly the one with chicken, mole and a southwest Valley store for five, they recently broke grilled vegetables, and you'll have to come back another away from the California-based chain and installed a night to sample other dishes. This appetizer is new brand: Jalisco Cantina. just as filling as any entrée, even if you share Several fresh coats of paint and many new it. Likewise for the heaping mounds of nachos, menu items later, a simple thought—We can JALISCO topped with anything from carne asada to do better—has come to fruition. The 24-hour CANTINA shredded beef barbacoa. cantinas are a bit more bright and comfortable, 3460 E. Sunset Also huge: fajitas ($15-$21), power-packed with gaming machines in the cantina spaces Road, 436with poblano chilies among the obligatory and family-friendly dining everywhere else. 5200; 6450 S. grilled peppers and finished with tequila, The foodie snob in you might want to dismiss Durango Road, Jalisco Cantina as the Mexican-food version of 312-8000. 24/7. lime and orange liqueur. Other worthwhile house specialties include mar y tierra ($22), the neighborhood video poker bar. Resist pessimism. Restaurants like these—ultra-casusteak and bacon-wrapped shrimp, and a al and tidy, beautifully unchallengsmile-inducing plate of some of the ing—hit the spot for the greatest best carnitas ($12) I've had in Las number of Las Vegans. There's Vegas, juicy chicharrón-topped no shame in being easy. pork hunks that maintain their robustness when crammed And besides, the food into a crispy fried chimichanis much better than the ga (also $12). bland mediocrity of those The yellow cheese might neighborhood bars. It starts be gone, but Jalisco Cantina's with the surprisingly spicy, Mexican food is not at all more bright flavors in the table exotic than what local eaters salsa, served alongside warm are accustomed to. If you're the corn chips and a small bowl type steadfastly holding onto the of sticky bean dip. The owners belief that you can't find great authentic chose the new name based on the Mexican food in Vegas, these places might diversity of cuisine in the northwestern not change your mind. But if you want a killer Mexican state, as well as its reputation as the chile verde burrito at any hour, you're covered. birthplace of tequila. (Yes, there's an ever- 56 LASVEGASWEEKLY.COM DECEMBER 19–25, 2013 56_Food_1_20131219.indd 56 in yuzu soy ($10), dabbed with tiny tempura jalapeño coins. At dinner, slide through exciting special cold dishes like salmon and ikura in wasabi creme and lemon vinaigrette ($9) or garlicdusted tai lemongrass ($11), then split some gyoza ($5) filled with beef and Chinese leeks and the luscious, bone-in Angus short ribs ($19). Mix and match surf and turf at will at Soho. You're in good hands. –Brock Radke > Chef's choice sashimi SOHO 7377 S. Jones Blvd., 776-7778. Monday-Saturday, noon-10 p.m. JALISCO CANTINA BY SPENCER BURTON; SOHO BY BROCK RADKE 12/18/13 11:33 AM

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