Flourish Magazine

After a decade of success in Arcata, Hull decided it was time for a change. Five years ago he purchased sixteen acres near Point Reyes and relocated his family, and Heidrun, to West Marin. The move was spurred by a desire to be closer to the Bay Area where the slow food movement and savvy consumers put locally produced products From left; Gordon Hull, Mead Maker, with Carly Verhey, Director of Sales and Hospitality and Beekeeper, Brad Albert. at a premium. beekeeping has had its challenges. "We've spring, Hull introduced several new colo- The new property — originally an old made just about every mistake in the nies to the Point Reyes apiary. So far, the dairy farm owned by the well-known book," Hull confides, "in spite of having bees are thriving and he is cautiously opti- Giacomini family — features a two-story thoroughly prepared ourselves by taking mistic that the worst is behind them. With remodeled hay barn that serves as both numerous beekeeping courses and consult- luck, Hull hopes to expand his beekeeping processing facility and office headquarters. ing with industry experts. In beekeeping, operation to at least a few hundred hives, Arriving guests drive through a canopy of there is no substitute for experience." He which would produce enough honey to Sweetgum and newly planted Fuji apple also hired right-hand man and head bee- support a modest production of "estate" trees to a parking area by the barn. keeper Brad Alberts in 2009 to carefully varietal meads. Currently, the meadery out- oversee the development and health of sources additional honey to meet growing Heidrun's colonies. demand for its product. The beautifully-manicured grounds include a large olive grove, a hen house filled with strutting layers, stacks of wooden Yet despite careful preparation, Mother Buzz about the meadery has attracted hives literally buzzing with activity, and a Nature sometimes throws an unexpected the curious and aspiring to the West Marin repurposed green house that has morphed curve. Heavy spring rains the first year facility. "We get a disproportionate number into the meadery's tasting room. An invit- nearly wiped out the young colonies, and of young men and women who are inter- ing outdoor collection of bistro tables and Hull found himself virtually starting from ested in starting their own meadery," Hull chairs, flanked by bee-friendly flowers and scratch with new bees in year two. The re- notes, adding that many winemakers have flitting hummingbirds, affords a quaint established colonies seemed to flourish in also dropped by. "They are fascinated by space to relax and enjoy a bottle of mead. the second and third years of production, our use of familiar winemaking techniques "It's the perfect place to stop for a quick but last October the meadery experienced to produce an exotic product." glass of bubbly before dinner at a local another devastating loss. "We came out restaurant, or pick up a chilled bottle on one morning and the bees were just gone are led by the lovely and knowledgeable the way to Hog Island for an oyster feed," without a trace," says Hull sadly. The Point Carly Verhey, Heidrun's Director of Sales, Hull adds. Reyes hives had suffered colony collapse who treats visitors to an insider's look at disorder — a largely unexplained phenom- the mead-making process, followed by a Marin, sustainability is a primary tenant enon that results in the abrupt disappear- tasting flight of current offerings: Hawai- of Heidrun's production philosophy. "Our ance and death of bee colonies. ian Lehua Blossom, an elegantly dry, crisp Like other artisan producers in West Tours and tastings (by appointment only) bees leave a benign footprint on the sur- The mysterious nature and increased rounding environment," Hull says, "and incidence of colony collapse over the last that's the perfect sip to kick-off your holi- provide a huge service to gardeners and decade has plagued beekeepers and threat- day feast; California Orange Blossom (their other farmers in the area as crop pollina- ened agriculture health in this country. As flagship varietal), a lush beverage with tors." primary pollinators, bees play a vital role floral and citrus notes that pairs well with in our food chain. One-third of the foods holiday brunch, soft cheese, seafood, and out paying homage to the tiny workers at we eat depend on pollination to produce pork; California Avocado Blossom, made the heart of its product: honeybees. Visitors fruits and seeds. Some speculate the cause from dark honey, is dry and mildly nutty can easily spot the busy residents of the of colony collapse may be attributed to a with more beer-like qualities and pairs meadery's thirty on-site hives, who create virus, parasites, or exposure to pesticides well with tacos, German fare, and heartier a constant hum as they forage for nectar (this latter reason is not a likely culprit foods; and Madras Carrot Blossom, another from nearby wild and cultivated flowering for producers in West Marin who widely dry, dark honey varietal with earthy "in- plants. The meadery also keeps hives in practice organic and sustainable methods cense" spice overtones that pair beautifully Bolinas and San Anselmo to diversify the of farming). with smoked game or Indian cuisine. It's impossible to discuss Heidrun with- colonies. Learning the ropes of commercial 16 FLOURISH • WINTER 2013  For Heidrun, the loss meant starting over from square one yet again. This beverage with notes of rose and strawberry The newest star on Heidrun's horizon is Hawaiian Macadamia Nut Blossom, made

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