GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

November 7, 2013

Las Vegas Weekly

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7 . We have really good pizza now Just like the city's overall dining scene, the Vegas pizza universe has its own milestones of significance. In 1976, Carmine Vento started selling New York pizza by the slice at Villa Pizza in Commercial Center. In 1986, two other New Yorkers decided to switch things up, rechristening their Original New York Pizza shops as Metro Pizza. In 2005, Settebello brought authentic Pizza Napoletana from the birthplace of pizza, Naples, Italy, to our own Green Valley. And in 2013, we broadened our horizons sampling these four staggeringly delicious styles of pizza. Pepperoni at "Secret Pizza" Smoked Salmon at Novecento 5705 Cosmopolitan, 698-7860. The crust: Classic New York perfection, floppy and foldable, flavorful and fantastic. The crust at the hidden pizzeria is the biggest reason this not-so-secret joint lives up to the hype. The toppings: Spicy pepperoni bleeding its oily, flavor-packed essence into the tomato sauce and goldencrisp cheese bubbling onto the crust edge … what else do you need? Centennial Center Blvd. #170, 685-4900; 9460 S. Eastern Ave. #130, 485-2900. The crust: Ideal Neapolitan, light and super thin, fired to bubbly, slightly scorched perfection in 90 seconds in a 900-degree stone oven. The toppings: Decadent smoked salmon with capers, red onions, extra virgin olive oil and goat cheese— and no tomato sauce. Romanstyle Prosciutto E Rucola at Due Forni 3555 S. Sicilian at Five50 Pizza Bar Aria, 5907550. The crust: This hybrid combines styles and comes out big on chew and developed flavors with an airy-butsubstantial texture. The toppings: Savory pancetta, slightly bitter broccoli rabe, creamy white cheese, sweet red peppers and briny blasts of white anchovy. –Brock Radke Town Center Drive #105, 586-6500. The crust: Thin and crispy but also more firm and crackly than its Neapolitan counterpart—a truly unique bite. The toppings: Rich, smoked bufala mozzarella is amplified by buttery prosciutto San Daniele, fresh arugula and dark, sweet drizzles of vincotto. 8. This costs $7 The grand, often expensive cuisine of elite restaurants on the Strip grabs more than its share of the local dining spotlight, but fantastic cheap eats will always be a big part of the Las Vegas food scene. Sheridan Su might just be the poster boy for our city's delicious deals. After leaving big casino restaurants to strike out on his own, Su started his independent career serving addictive bao from a hair salon, and now his affordable dining emporium Fat Choy happily dishes up can't-miss gyoza ($6), bao stuffed with pork belly or Peking duck ($7), and bowls of sesame noodles ($8) sure to please. ¶ Of course, his aren't the only cost-effective eats around. Spring Mountain Road is a literal boulevard of discount dining, ranging from China Mama's crispy stir-fried beef ($12.95) and xiao long bao soup-filled dumpings ($8.95) to mee goreng fried noodles ($8) from Island Malaysian. Other outstanding ethnic options that won't break the bank include Prince's Serbian cevapi sausages ($8-$10); La Hacienda's outstanding parrillada de carne, a $35 tray of grilled meats that serves at least eight; and anything from Tijuana's Tacos El Gordo or Downtown's Venezuelan Viva Las Arepas. ¶ The major casinos offer relatively cheap eats, too, if you're ready to find them, like Estiatorio Milos' loss-leading three-course lunch ($22.13) and the $7.77 not-so-secret Gambler's Special of steak and grilled shrimp at Mr. Lucky's. Of course, Downtown Vegas standbys like the Golden Gate shrimp cocktail ($2.99) and the El Cortez prime rib special ($8.75) and Jackie burger ($5 with a beer!) are still going strong. –Jim Begley 20 LASVEGASWEEKLY.COM NOVEMBER 7–13, 2013 20-21_Feature_Dining_20131107.indd 20 "SECRET PIZZA" AND FIVE50 BY L.E. BASKOW; NOVECENTO AND DUE FORNI BY CHRISTOPHER DEVARGAS; FAT CHOY BY SAM MORRIS 11/6/13 4:32 PM

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