GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

October 3, 2013

Las Vegas Weekly

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A&E | FOOD > ONE-STOP SHOP Take a fresh cut home or stay for steak at Tivoli Village's new Echo & Rig. WHO GOT LUCKY? Sarah Feldberg helps choose a key cocktail for LuckyRice SHAKING UP THE STEAKHOUSE Tivoli's Echo & Rig puts positive new twists on a Vegas staple BY BROCK RADKE For Kline's recipe, visit > COOL AS A ... YOU KNOW Get ready to sip on this at LuckyRice Night Market. ECHO AND RIG BY STEVE MARCUS; LUCKYRICE BY BILL HUGHES plate is the Spencer steak ($25), an old-school cut taken Las Vegas has seen some excellent new restaurants from the center of the ribeye. It's juicy and full of flavor arrive in the last year, but few have provided genuine and served with garlic potato chips and a Rockefellersurprise. At the Summerlin-area retail center Tivoli style stuffed mushroom. Since they're butchering everyVillage, for example, Ogden's Hops & Harvest delivthing here, Echo & Rig offers several other steaks that ered exactly what it promised and what we thought it you can't find all over, like the ribeye cap, herb-mariwould—quality comfort food in a relaxed, somewhatnated hanger and lemon and garlic tri-tip (all $23). The upscale environment. It's in the Goldilocks zone, a most expensive items on the menu are the New York just-right kind of place, and this is the strategy Tivoli strip, filet mignon and ribeye steaks ($34). Village is using in its ambitious quest to build a suburSteak is steak, and these are as good as you'll find off ban mixed-use development around dining. the Strip. Complementing the meat is a lengthy list of Echo & Rig is something entirely different. Here, shareable plates ($5-$9) highlighting fresh vegetables there are surprises galore, and that was the plan from and heartier ingredients that could create an amazchef and restaurateur Sam Marvin (formerly of LA's ing meal by themselves. The flavors run from Modada and Bottega Louie). It is a steakhouse subtle to stunning in dishes like roasted cauliand butcher shop, a concept combo unfamilflower with chile de arbol and crispy shallots, iar to Las Vegas, but that's just the beginning. ECHO & RIG burrata covered in English peas, mint and olive Marvin and his team aim to deconstruct what Tivoli Village, oil, and fried chicken with red wine gastrique. it means to be a steakhouse, including the stan489-3525. The non-steak entrées (all $18) are anchored by dard big prices attached to big pieces of meat. Daily, 11 a.m.a roasted half-chicken with white grits, horseThat's the first surprise. 11 p.m. radish-crusted fish and Colorado lamb chops Next, there's the regal openness of the with mini potatoes, dried apricots and mustard. space. The first story is a vast foyer with The sandwich selection (all $12) is impeccable, higha small bar, a small sandwich counter and a third lighted by hanger steak with roasted chilies and lemon counter that fronts the butcher operation. You can chimichurri, roast pork loin and sweet potato, and watch butcher Trevor Morones, an up-and-comer who the indulgent Drunken Goat—red wine-marinated goat apprenticed under the legendary Pat LaFrieda, do his cheese plus smooth Brie, cranberry chutney and green thing thanks to huge windows enclosing the butchery. apple on crunchy, toasted walnut bread. The dining room is upstairs, a fancy wedge with a vast Echo & Rig promises to be one of the most exciting patio and the feel of a banquet hall during a family new restaurants in this neighborhood, as plans are in gathering. Everything is bright and comfortable in a the works to expand into breakfast and brunch. Until way that's very unsteakhouse. then, it'll be hard not to become a regular, leaning into a The surprise reaches full blossom on the menu, comfortable dinner upstairs or stopping by on the way divided up into salads, soups, sandwiches, sides and home to pick up some meat cut just for you. small plates, steaks and other entrées. The signature The mission is simple yet daunting: Sample 14 drinks and select a cocktail for the Cosmopolitan's October 5 LuckyRice Night Market, the centerpiece of a weekend food fest featuring local and visiting chefs dishing modern Asian flavors to discerning crowds. Naturally, the liquid offerings must live up to the culinary component, so the Cosmo tapped property mixologists Chris Hopkins LUCKYRICE and Mariena Mercer NIGHT to create two of the MARKET evening's three cockOctober 5, 7-10 tails. The third? That's p.m., $88-$125. where I come in. Boulevard It's noon, and I'm Pool at at Chandelier Bar with Cosmopolitan, Mercer and Cosmo Director of Beverage Scott Barthelmes, preparing to judge drinks from 14 resort staffers who must use Bombay Sapphire to channel the spirit of Lucky-Rice. Tasty libations arrive with names like Smuggling Spice, Phra Nang Water and No More Mr. Rice Guy. Some sound odd on paper but taste marvelous. Others read well but arrive slightly off—the gin buried, too much maraschino or simple syrup. For three hours we sample basil crystals and chilesalt rims, then it's time to name the winner: the refreshing elixir called Cool As A ..., made with Amaro Meletti, lime, five-spice syrup and cucumber, by Vesper bar porter and apprentice mixologist Jackie Kline. He looks shocked as we read his name, but soon he's posing for pictures, a giant bottle of Bombay in his arms. Me? I've had my fill of gin—at least until this weekend. –Sarah Feldberg 46 LASVEGASWEEKLY.COM OCTOBER 3–9, 2013 46_Food_1_20131003.indd 46 10/2/13 3:57 PM

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