Flourish Magazine

of the food world. There is so much diversity in flavor, size, color. It's hard not to get excited about them. With a tomato being such a universal ingredient, there's so much you can do with them," he says. "The only limitation is your own creativity." Because they're delicate, heirloom tomatoes have what Wright calls a special aliveness that lends them to a wide range of dishes, from salads to bruschetta to hot or cold soups, even to tomato sorbets. "What's great is that there are so many types, each with its own flavor and color. Some are more savory, some are as sweet as fruit," he explains. Wright advises that in choosing heirloom tomatoes to cook with at home, think about when you are going to use them and how. "The selection process is the biggest part," he says. "Don't pick something ready to eat today if you want to eat it on the weekend. It's fine to put tomatoes in the refrigerator as long as you bring them out 24 hours before you eat them." Try Aaron Wright's recipe for savory bruschetta, on the next Chef Paul Della Santina with Zucchini Dore. page. It's perfect with a martini or a glass of crisp white wine. Zucchini While this versatile vegetable is available year-round, zucchini is at its best from July through November, when it's plentiful and inexpensive in farmers markets. Marin Joe's in Corte Madera, now 59 years old and a venerable family business, features a Tuscan-style zucchini appetizer that's one of the most popular on the menu: Zucchini Doré. This is a simple but luscious preparation of zucchini planks, egged, floured, and cooked until browned and soft in extra-virgin olive oil. According to Paul Della Santina, chef and co-owner of Marin Joe's, "We do zucchini three ways. Deep-fried with breading, floured and with egg batter and pan-fried, or finished with white wine, lemon and butter. To the Italians, Doré is something you can do with everything. In Italy, we cook everything in flour and egg batter. You can do the whole meal this way, from zucchini, Executive Chef Megan Smith with Johnny Cakes. through your chicken or fish, right on through to egged and floured fried apples and peaches with a scoop of ice cream." Zucchini is particularly appealing, he says, because it is so simple to cook, has a mild flavor, and a sturdy texture that makes it spectacular on a plate either on its own or as a garnish. Serve lasagna-shaped slices of Zucchini Doré as an appetizer, or cut the vegetable in rounds and prepare the same way, for a spectacular garnish to a whole roast chicken, leg of lamb or roast of beef. Recipe on the following page. Sweet Corn At Vin Antico in San Rafael, re-opened under new ownership two months ago, executive chef Megan Smith celebrates the restaurant's new farm-to-table concept with a seasonal menu that changes all the time. Right now, she's loving the versatility of corn on the cob, working it into lovely dishes including a fresh corn johnnycake. Chef Aaron Wright with Heirloom Tomato Bruschetta. FALL 2013 • FLOURISH 37

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