Michigan Avenue - Niche Media - Michigan Avenue magazine is a luxury lifestyle magazine centered around Chicago’s finest people, events, fashion, health & beauty, fine dining & more!
Issue link: http://www.ifoldsflip.com/i/138854
TASTE SUMMER SIPPER Bartender Matthew Lipsky thinks floral with Charcoal Bar's cool, complex hibiscus cocktail. "You can't pigeonhole everyone's taste into seven drinks," says bartender Matthew "Choo" Lipsky, explaining his preference to not hand out a cocktail menu to visitors of Sumi's hyperintimate— as in 11 seats—downstairs Charcoal Bar. Instead, the bearish, besuited mixologist interacts with guests to create the perfect customized drink, whether it's a Manhattan with a hand-chipped, baseball-sized sphere of ice—"best in the city," attests Lipsky—or a beyond-fluffy gin fizz. Lipsky is always thinking floral ("most of my drinks are named after flowers," he admits), and for summer he's created an appealingly drinkable take on hibiscus. "It's just a quick, well-rounded drink," he says. "Fresh, light, and easy but complex at the same time." HIBISCUS Charcoal Bar seats only 11. LEFT: Matthew Lipsky tops off a cocktail. continued from page 72 York strip served on a hot stone), a holdover from Japonais; a playful "slider" of grilled beef sausage on a bao bun topped with spicy miso mustard; and surprisingly refreshing panna-cotta-like tofu kissed with soy and served with caviar and crispy ginger, which offers a palate-cleansing counterpoint to the smoky grilled meats. Boasts Kato, "I don't think you'll find a better tofu than what we have to offer." The space itself—which, at 34 seats, is a veritable jewel box compared to Japonais—is clean, light, and minimal. "Everything had to relate to charcoal," reasons Kato, "so the upstairs design was based on its natural form: wood." In the dining room, that means walls of untreated wood planks; in sharp contrast, downstairs in the tight quarters of Charcoal Bar, the décor is all black, complete with walls that are literally burnt. "We went out to the —GENE KATO suburbs and burnt 100 planks of wood, so we were actually creating a charcoal." The restaurant's comfortably small scale and Kato's embrace of a technique that holds simple, authentic flavors and preparations in the highest regard is paying dividends. "The neighborhood has been very supportive," the chef notes. "We have regulars who come in three times a week, and people within the industry." (Indeed, powerhouse Chicago chefs Stephanie Izard, Rick Bayless, and Brendan Sodikoff have each visited to show their support.) But what Kato is happiest about is that he's back in the kitchen once again. "I cook every day with my staff [now]," says Kato, "and I'm able to manage the operation at the same time. That's why Sumi is the size it is—so it can function on all levels." 702 N. Wells St., 312-988-7864; sumirobatabar.com MA "This will be a great new introduction for Japanese cuisine in Chicago." 74 Shake first five ingredients with rinsed ice, then strain into a cocktail glass. Top with Chenin Blanc. Rub rim of glass with expelled lemon peel, then discard peel. TABLE HOPPING Guests can watch culinary magic happen at Sumi's ringside seats. With chef Gene Kato manning the robata every night, there's no question that the robata bar's 14 seats are the best in the house— particularly those in the middle of the bar, which offer most direct access to Kato and sous chef Justin Romine as they prep, grill, and plate dishes. "There's a lot more interaction [with robata bar guests]," says Kato. "They can ask us questions, we can make recommendations, and we try to offer them an amuse bouche.… Sitting there you're definitely in the hot seat with the action." PHOTOGRAPHY BY GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY (CHARCOAL BAR); NATHAN KIRKMAN (DRINK, SUMI INTERIOR, LIPSKY) ABOVE: 2 oz. Siete Leguas Blanco tequila ¾ oz. Fruitlab organic hibiscus liqueur ½ oz. Salers Gentiane liqueur ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice ¼ oz. simple syrup 1 ½ oz. sparkling Chenin Blanc MICHIGANAVEMAG.COM 072-074_MA_Flavor_FlavorOfTheMonth_SUMMER13.indd 74 6/18/13 12:04 PM